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I had hoped to finish my toile (muslin) of my first Chanel jacket this week. Because this was the week I got my Covid booster, and it flared up my right shoulder problem, I didn't achieve my goal.
What I did instead was study my two new-to-me books on couture sewing. Both are by Claire B. Schaeffer. Couture Sewing Techniques is a book for more experienced sewists. Even so it does a great job of describing hand-sewing and how to do it. Even those who only do repairs or hems can benefit from this. I learned a lot about what couture really is, and how the sewists in ateliers work to create the exquisite couture garments. It, of course, made me want to learn even more, to become a better sewist.
The second book I bought and read is Couture Sewing: The Couture Cardigan Jacket (read Chanel). Schaeffer is an expert in haute couture. She also has an extensive collection of Chanel jackets herself. She shares many photos of those jackets in this book. She also tells you step by step how to make your own Chanel-like jacket.
Anyone planning to make one of these jackets should begin with this book -- which also includes a DVD. Start with the book even before you buy fabric. She mentions how important it is to choose your lining at the time you choose your jacket fabric, if you want them to match or complement each other.
There are so many details on a Chanel jacket that make it timeless. It has been popular for one hundred years. Put one on and you feel elegant. Wear it with jeans, slacks, a skirt, or dress it up for special occasions. I've always wanted one and clearly I'll never be able to afford one, not even from the RealReal. The jackets are not only the haute couture version, but also a (still expensive) ready to wear version. There are previously worn ones on various sites. But here's the thing: unless it's either haute couture or made specifically to fit your body, it won't be the same.
This is why I've decided to up my sewing game. If I follow directions step by step, and take my time (at least 80-100 hours of sewing), I will have a Chanel like jacket of my own. I'm planning to make at least two that are more faux than real, and at least two more as real as I can make them.
In addition to the reading, and watching the DVD that comes with the jacket book, I've subscribed to Schaeffer's YouTube channel and have watched a few of her reels.
I believe this fall and winter will be seasons of hand sewing for me. Because in addition to these jackets, I have a few jean jackets to embellish, and this is almost entirely hand work.
Do you have or have you ever had a Chanel jacket? Do you have the Chanel jacket desire like I do? Do you mend? Do any hand sewing at all?
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Sandra, hope your arm and shoulder are feeling better today. Don't you love that we live in the era of free video's on just about any topic! It is so wonderful to watch a pro do whatever job we are about to tackle. Of course well done books are also very helpful with their words to the wise as we layout a pattern or adjust it for our body type. I am aware of Claire Schaeffer's many books. Isn't she terrific! Happy to say that my local library has a few of her books still on their shelves. They are a few years old now and I am worried that they will get pulled before long. (Hate that libraries cannot distinguish the books that are hard to replace.) Will be looking forward to your Chanel adventure! Keep us posted!
It's fun to know what sources you use. Make your own Chanel is a goal worth studying before you cut.
Enjoy your process.